Puppy Care – Grooming

Grooming:

Any grooming supplies mentioned on this page or in the video such as Holistic Shampoos and Ear cleaner can be purchased from http://www.lifesabundance.com/2dogfood. ….

Repeated head shaking. Foul-smelling, waxy build-up. Red, painfully inflamed ears. What do all these things have in common? All are symptoms of otitis externa, or what is commonly referred to as ear infections. If you have ever groaned inwardly and felt dismay the moment your dog starts shaking his head or rubbing his ears along the nearest available surface, you’re not alone. Unfortunately, too many pet parents are more than familiar with this recurring medical problem. Often, it is accompanied by an offensive odor and one can only imagine how overwhelming the smell is to the suffering pup! Canine ear infections result from an overgrowth of yeast or bacteria in the ear canal, causing redness, irritation and a heavy accumulation of wax. Likely triggers of these maladies are skin reactions to inhaled allergens – like pollen, mold or dust mites – or food allergies and sensitivities. Be aware that both large ears and swimming predispose dogs to ear infections. Humans tend to develop ear infections as a result of viral infections, typically in infancy or early youth. As youngsters, our Eustachian tubes are very small. Respiratory congestion can lead to blockage of these canals, resulting in otitis media (a middle ear infection). Because the infection is internal, they frequently require oral antibiotics. In contrast, pets usually develop ear infections as adults, and the infection is almost always localized in the external portion of the ear. In most cases, the application of prescription drops or ointments directly into the ear canal usually resolves the illness. If you suspect your companion animal may be suffering from an ear infection, please seek veterinarian assistance for diagnosis and treatment. If necessary, your vet may prescribe a topical medicine and advise routine cleaning.
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Giant Schnauzer Grooming: Things You’ll Need for grooming: Cotton balls, Dog shampoo, Towel, Blow dryer- (NEEDED), Comb, Brush, Cotton Swabs, Scissors, Dog nail trimmer, Nail file. Good pair of Clippers if you are clipping the hair with a # 10 or a #7 blade, and attachments for body longer length cutting. Also keep baking soda on hand just encase you cut the nails to short and they start to bleed. Baking soda helps the bleeding stop and the pain. tweezers to pluck any hair out of ears. Unlike most dog breeds, Schnauzers are low to no shedding. While that means there will not be fur coating the living room couch, it also means routine grooming is important to a Schnauzer’s well-being. Unkempt hair will become knotted, matted and uncomfortable for your pet. Many owners decide to send their Schnauzers to professional groomers because of the skill and time involved. Other owners, however, attempt to do the task themselves. There are a plethora Schnauzer styles out there. Some owners intend to enter their Schnauzer as a show dog in competitions, while others keep them as regular pets. The following tips apply to all types of Schnauzers: Giant, standard, miniature, and toy.

1.Bathe your dog in room-temperature water in either a bathtub or large plastic tub. To prevent slipping, a rubber mat can be used. Use dog shampoo, which can be purchased at healthy petnet. Don’t forget to also clean out the ears with the ear cleaner talked about in the video above and clean out eyes with a gentle rinse in the tub or wipe with a wet damp cloth. You may also need to pluck out any hair growing in the ears to keep it clean and dry in them. Once the dog has been thoroughly cleaned, dry him off with a towel and hair dryer. Simultaneously brush the dog’s coat and comb the hair.

The next few steps you may choose for your groomer to do:

2.Clip your Schnauzer. The process starts with the dog’s head. A No. 7 or 10 head can be used on the clippers or, alternatively, a pair of sheered scissors. When clipping I use a Oster Golden A5… If the clipper blades start to get hot turn them off for a while so you do not end up burning your pets skin. You can always stop and finish the clipping in 2 or 3 sessions… A Schnauzer should have hair on the face, brow and a goaty beard so be sure not to remove much hair from the face.

3.Trim the dog’s hair between the eyes in a inverted V so your dog can see but stay away from the rest of the face and brows. You want to cut those with sheers.

  1. Shave his front legs in a downward direction to the length you want. It is pretty much a Cocker cut and a skirt is left as well as hair on the legs, but the back and top of head is shaved short.
  2. Be sure to check the toenails and clip or trim when necessary. This is done with a dog nail trimmer, which you can purchase at any pet store. Place the nail trimmer under the dog’s nails, watching for where you see pink. Pink is the dogs blood vessels ,and you do not want to cut these. In dark dogs you may not see the pink so just cut the point off the nail and after a week do it again to get to the desired length. Squeeze the nail trimmers without twisting. Move on to the next nail until they are all trimmed. File your dog’s nails with a nail file if you think they are too sharp after trimming. Don’t forget to make sure you get the dew claw if your pup still has that nail to. Keeping your dogs nails short helps prevent any deformities associated with their paws.
  3. Lastly, all dog grooming should include brushing their teeth using dog toothbrush and dog dental products on an every other day.
    On Schnauzers, as they grow into teenagers from 5 mths to a year of age their coat may appear thin, this is just your puppy loosing his puppy coat, as an adult his coat will come in thick. Nothing to worry about at all.

UPDATE 11-9-14: I have recently been able to try out the ear taping kit made by Hoytt. It is called Quick Brace and it is really nice. I think it works better on younger pups than the older ones though. I would highly recommend this ear posting quick brace system to everyone. It doesn’t work for all pups though, some get it pulled off pretty quickly. Here is a link to their site if you want to try their system but keep in mind you will be leaving my site so bookmark us now so You can come back to our site. Here is the Quick Brace site address: http://www.hoytt.com/ears/

Ears! : On docked ears you will need to tape the ears for a while until the the cartilage grows to the desired form. The training might be as short as a couple weeks post cropping or as long as one year. No one can tell you how long taping is going to take, every pup is different. If you do not believe you have time in your daily schedule to re-apply lost ear supports than I suggest that you consider a puppy with natural ears. The goal is to leave supports in place for 5 to 7 days, remove the supports and glue and allow the ears to air out for 1 day and then re-apply supports. This schedule should be kept up until the ears are standing correctly by themselves. After the puppy turns 4 ½ months old the ears may stand correctly for a longer period of time. Allow them to stand as long as possible on their own, if they begin to tip or fall you will again apply the ear training for 5 -7 days. Repeat as necessary. You may find that your dog’s ears have stood perfectly for several months, only to droop again at around 6-8 months old. Molars are probably beginning to erupt which can affect the sinus cavity and ear canals. If this happens, you will need to support the ears again using the same methods as you used previously. Sports tape and duct tape are our personal preference. I must emphasize the importance of NEVER pulling any tape or material tightly around the ear-NEVER, EVER! What happens when you cut off the normal blood flow to an appendage? You really don’t want to find out! NEVER EVER stretch your tape or pull your tape when wrapping. Our photos show our method of pinching the tape to form a snug fit, this method will not restrict the blood flow to the top of the ear if done correctly. Below is how I do this and you are welcome to call me anytime if you want me to walk you through it. If you are local I can do it for you in person. You can go to the following video I found that has a good procedure for ear taping. The only difference is that we use bond glue and tape the ears more…. We also use a popsicle stick or more foam tubing to connect the posted ears together in the H shape

IF YOUR PUP STILL HAS EARS HEALING: Do not leave tape wrapped around any scabs or healing skin. Do not put glue on any sutures or healing skin. You can use the glue and tape but just make sure the glue does not get on the healing edge. Tape: You can cut the edge of the tape off of healing skin once glue dries in about an hour. This way the healing edge can be open to the air. You can also choose to leave tape on but have gauze between the tape and the healing skin to protect the healing tissue from the adhesive and to absorb natural moisture. If ears are still healing then ears have to be posted more often so the healing edge does not get infected. Every 3 to 4 days is sufficient and sooner if it gets wet. Moisture can cause infection. after sutures are removed you should help loosen scabs by soaking in water and breaking apart a little at a time with your nails. Do not pull scabs that are not soaked first or that are very deep or you will pull healthy tissue along with it and create an indention in the ear. You should massage the ears daily and massage real well in between postings as well as pulling the edge while massaging to help the edge looking its best. If ears are newly cropped responsibility of the care of the wound is solely on the puppy buyer after transfer of puppy. Keep clean to avoid infection. E-collar from your vet may be needed.

You will need: One 4oz can of Tobolt skin bonding glue, (can buy glue on ebay.com), One roll of 1.5″ sports tape, 1 roll of 1/2″ medical tape, One package of 5/8″ foam tubing caulk saver, (kind for windows), One roll of duct tape, 1 pack of foam sheet paper, (in the craft isle), popsicle sticks, and One bottle of skin safe glue dis-solvent such as Dissolve It or Goo Gone.

step 1: Cut foam tubing to length of ear and then wrap with sports tape. You can cut it a little long and cut away extra when all finished if desired. Your post is done unless you need to pop out the bases. For this you roll 1″strips of the foam sheet paper over the point where you want the bulge to be so that it pops the bases out. Tape over the bulge. This is needed if you notice the ear wanting to bend when post is put on. You want the skin to lie snug against the post so that is where you may need to add the bulge, (foam sheet paper strips), if needed. Usually the bulge will be 1/2″ from base of post and that still allows the base of the post to fit in the ear canal nicely. The bulge is not needed most of the time….

step 1a

step 2: Before this step line all of inner ear and one side of foam tubing with bonding glue. Then place tube in ear and tape the base, being careful not to make tape to tight that it cuts off the circulation. Make sure that the ear skin is wrapped nicely around the tube without being bent at all.

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step 8 – Wrap tape at top of ear

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step 18 – Make sure ears are parallel and set evenly on both sides. Keep dog from pawing at ears as much as possible and keep dog close for at least 10 minutes until glue has set firm.

I sometimes will cut a long piece of tape and make a strap under pups neck from ear to ear if pup is getting the end of posts out of inside of ear.

You can use the glue dis-solvent to get any mess cleaned up and to clean off the ears in between taping. remember to give your dog a day off after 5 to 7 days of being taped to allow skin to breath. Than tape up again for another 5 – 7 days and keep doing this until the ears are set in place without any change when untaped. Give dog a bath to remove any dis-solvent which is oily and smelly.

 

 

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