Parasites Of ALL Kinds, Worms, Fleas, Ticks, etc… Also Ear Yeast and Infections:

Any puppy can get parasites at any time in their life. Even dogs that are regularly wormed still get a parasite every now and then. All puppies will get parasites like round worms from their mom or on the mom’s nipples from her being outside, that is why breeders worm pups every two weeks until they leave to their new homes and additional wormings may be needed. Sometimes wormers do not get them all and they are absolutely everywhere in our environment. Routine vet care, monthly wormings, and watching for changes in your pets behavior or soft stools, are your best defense. We recommend getting a fecal test done at your first vet visit with your new puppy and any time your pup has soft stools for more then a day or is acting lethargic or not eating or drinking well. If a puppy has recently been wormed you may see a few worms in their fecal for up to a week later, they are dead and dying worms from the last worming. If ever in doubt take fecal to vet with your pup’s shot record for vet to look through it. People can “in rare cases” contract a parasite from their pet. It is extremely rare because you have to ingest the fecal matter and that fecal would have to have the parasite in it which not all fecals do. People are also more hardy creatures and if a human gets a parasite they may have a tummy ache and softer stools on and off and do not get as sick as a puppy can get. Hand washing and using gloves, (while cleaning up fecal), if your dog has parasites will stop the spreading around of fecal. Always consult your dr if you feel you may have contracted a parasite.
WORMS: If puppy has a fecal test positive for worms: if it is within first week of you getting your pup from us please let us know and we will pay for the first round of wormer as the health guarantee says. In most cases it is just a couple of parasites still left over from our wormings. Our pups are not raised in a plastic box! They and their parents are allowed to play outside and go on outings as family pets and so may pick something up, we worm pups every two weeks and parents every month to kill anything they may pick up but that may not kill every parasite and a worming schedule is a must for any puppy or dog.  If your vet sees parasites in the puppy fecal test he will give you a wormer and you should give as directed by your vet. Most worms are gone with a simple 1-3 day wormer treatment. You may very well see a few dead or dying worms in your pup’s fecal after it has been wormed. That is good because it means the wormer is doing it’s job.  You should put your puppy on a monthly wormer as your monthly pet care. Pups should be wormed every two weeks until 12 wks old and then after a negative fecal check, should get wormed once a month every month for the rest of their life after that. If puppy is not eating or drinking at any time, please contact me so I can give you some tips. Make sure your puppy eats well after any worming, vaccine, or medicine is given, syringe feed if needed!

GIARDIA, TRITRICHOMONAS, OR OTHER PROTOZOAN: If puppy has a fecal test positive for a protozoan such as Giardia or Tritrichomonas here is what I have done:
These protozoan are in infected fecal matter and can also be in dirt and water puddles. Puppies can get it from mom if mom goes outside in the grass at all, which all our adult dogs and pups play and go outside to potty as they are all family pets. Best to try and keep your pup from drinking water in puddles or where other animals, even wild animals, have went poop, but if your pup contracts this you can rest assured there is a medicine that will fix it. If your pup has this within the first week of transfer we will pay for the first round of medicine as stated in the health guarantee. Remember our pups are allowed to play on our farm and so on occasion will pick up a parasite, even though we worm every 2 weeks some parasites are not killed by routine wormers. Giardia actually takes at least 10 days of panacur and metro wormer to kill off, but routine wormings of pups is a three day wormer or a one day wormer. there will be some pups that will catch this from being on a farm, a good breeder will explain this and help pay for wormer as we do if it shows up in your new pup soon after transfer. So Here is a list of what I do myself when a pup or adult dog has this:
1. I first make sure the pup is well hydrated and drinking water, if not I will syringe water or Gatorade. Gatorade has electrolytes that are good if the pup has loose stools.  If pup is extremely dehydrated you may need to get a bag of saline from your vet and have him show you how to administer fluids under the skin for a few days to hydrate the puppy. Amount is very important because giving to much is just as bad as not giving any at all and can kill a puppy. In most cases sub-q fluids are not needed. Pups usually drink even if they are not eating.
2. If pup has not been eating you may need to syringe food. Care would be like that for a teacup puppy that is not eating. Your vet can show you how to syringe soft food. Again this is not needed most of the time.
3. Your vet would have given you a medicine for your puppy. Give these meds exactly as directed.
4. Keep pup from being around his poop /fecal matter. I do this by keeping a newborn, preemie, or babydoll disposable diaper,”put on backwards”, on the puppy and change the diaper as needed throughout the day. You could also instead of using a diaper, keep puppy up on wire or a grated surface so poop falls through so pup does not ever get to the poop, or keep another crate handy and switch out pup when it poops, cleaning and disinfecting crates after each poop and drying the crate out well. This way you are not putting the protozoan anywhere in the puppy’s environment. If using the diaper method: When you change the diaper you will need to give the puppy a bath with a disinfecting skin soap around his rear and legs/feet to clean off any poop on his fur, dry him well, and then put a new diaper on. I usually change a diaper on a pup 4 or 5 times a day, or each time I notice poop in it. Poop can make skin raw so use diaper ointment if needed. I also use an e-collar that keeps the puppy from chewing through his diaper if needed. Your vet will have these. You must allow the puppy times without collar and diaper on through out the day. I usually do this after each changing of the diaper, just allowing puppy to be free without the e-collar and diaper for about half an hour so it can eat and drink and move around a while and just keep an eye out for any bowel movements.  It is very important to weigh the puppy every day and make sure there is no loss of weight, also pinch skin to see if hydration level is ok.  If there is loss of weight the puppy is either getting dehydrated or is not eating enough food. Make sure to wash puppy’s cage once a day or as needed with bleach water and wash bowls everyday with bleach water or more often if you see fecal matter, and most importantly wash your hands every time you touch the puppy or puppy’s things until he is cleared of the protozoan. In my experience if you use the diaper method they get over it much quicker because they are not reinfecting themselves with it. It usually takes 10-14 days to get a cleared stool sample and sometimes it can take longer but I have always had them clear by day 10 if using the diaper method. I usually do the diaper method 7 to 10 days, then I just make sure to clean up poop as soon as I see it. As always I’m only a phone call away if u have any questions.

Coccicdiosis: Coccidia are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that live in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats. They cause disease most commonly in puppies and kittens less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed, or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g.; change in ownership, other disease present). This is actually very easily and inexpensively treated and is one of the least worrisome of any parasite. Puppies that have this may have loose stools but rarely does it cause a pup to vomit or act sick. If pup has problems it is generally from loose stools causing dehydration and only in severe cases. Any puppy with this should be treated with Albon for at least two weeks and food and water intake should be watched to make sure pup is eating and drinking enough.

In dogs and cats, most coccidia are of the genus called Isospora. Isospora canis and I. ohioensis are the species most often encountered in dogs. Regardless of which species is present, we generally refer to the disease as coccidiosis. As a puppy ages, he tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia. As an adult, he may carry coccidia in his intestines, and shed the cyst in the feces, but experience no ill effects. Most dogs in the US carry Cocci in them from time to time and it is not noticed and has no ill effects for most adult dogs. Puppies can get it from their mothers soon after birth or from contaminated soil outside.

It should be mentioned that stress plays a role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy to arrive at his new home and develop diarrhea several days later leading to a diagnosis of coccidia. Most our puppies leave with a week of Albon to guard against a cocci outbreak, but if the puppy does have cocci he will need Albon for two weeks to completely get rid of all the cocci, all fecal needs to be cleaned up so pup does not reinfect himself again.

FLEAS, MITES, TICKS: A pet will get a flea or tick every now and then, even if you give the recommended once a month flea treatment. A flea or tick can hitch a ride on your pet at any time. If you see a tick you can just get a grip on the whole tick and pull it out of the animal in one fluid motion making sure the head is not left in the pet. If the head gets left in you will need to get tweezers and go in and get it because it could cause an infection. If you mow your yard and keep the weeds down it helps a lot with ticks in the yard. At moist times of the year ticks are more prevalent. Fleas are in the grass outside and may hitch a ride on your pet, again even if your pet has a flea preventive on him. If you see fleas on your pet you should ask your vet about using a flea shampoo or topical treatment on your pet. Don’t use a flea shampoo and a flea topical on same day, that could overdose your puppy. Always consult your vet first! They have powders and sprays at the store if you have fleas in your home. It’s best to make sure they are animal friendly before using them in your home and ask vet before using along with other flea treatments. Mites also can come from the grass or other animals and a dog can get mites living in his ears even if on a monthly flea preventive. If your puppy has ear mites you can either get ear drops to kill the mites from your vet or your nearest pet store.

YEAST IN EARS: Yeast in the ear is not a parasite but does happen on occasion with all dogs because the ear is a moist warm place wear yeast likes to grow. It can grow very quickly. If you see black stuff in the ear this is usually yeast. I clean the ear out very well and pluck out the hair to help prevent it in the future. I then swab in a yeast cream such as over the counter monistat you can get at any pharmacy. Yeast medicine from the vet should cost less than $20 and if it’s more go with the monistat. Don’t allow your vet to talk u into expensive meds or procedures for your puppy. I have heard of one New York vet charging a dog owner $300 to just clean out the ears of a dog that had yeast. This is robbery. This is why I tell everyone that buys our puppies to call me if you are ever at the vet’s office and they are talking about expensive procedures and meds. Chances are I can save you tons of money with telling you how to do it yourself or explaining inexpensive fixes.

Ear Infections: Same as yeast it will happen occasionally because the ear is moist and warm. Clean out the ear yourself, pluck any hairs, call me if you need to know how to clean out the ear, and put the puppy on an oral antibiotic from your vet. A broad spectrum antibiotic for an ear infection should be around $30 or less. If it costs more your vet is using an expensive med when there are tons of cheaper versions that will work just fine. Ask for a cheaper version if you feel the one prescribed is too expensive. No other med is needed for an ear infection. Drops for pain are not needed and will just add to the moisture you are trying to get rid of in the ear. By keeping ears clean and dried out after bath or a swim you will prevent future ear infections.

Top 10 Worst Excuses Breeders Use for NOT Doing Health Testing

From the Giant Schnauzer Club of America Website:

Top 10 Worst Excuses Breeders Use for NOT Doing Health Testing

TOP 10 Giant Schnauzer Breeders’ Worst Excuses Here are the TOP TEN Worst Excuses which breeders of the Giant Schnauzer have actually used to explain why they do not health test their Giant Schnauzer breeding stock. Below these excuses are the real facts. The excuses are listed in reverse order, from the least offensive to the most outrageous.

#10. I refuse to have my Giant Schnauzers anesthetized to have their hips x-rayed. Veterinarians and veterinary assistants who are competent with radiography equipment can x-ray the hips of un-anesthetized Giant Schnauzer without any problems.

#9. Heath tested and cleared dogs still could be carriers for a genetic defect and produce defective puppies, so why bother? Genetic health test clearances do not guarantee that Giant Schnauzer litters will be disease-free, but the odds in favor of producing genetic disease-free Giant Schnauzer puppies are greatly increased when only tested and cleared Giant Schnauzers are bred. Therefore, it is irresponsible to the puppies and the buyers to not test and clear all Giant Schnauzer breeding stock.

#8. I can tell whether any of my Giant Schnauzers have hip dysplasia by watching how they walk, so I don’t need to have their hips hips x-rayed. Wrong! Even board certified veterinary orthopedists cannot accurately diagnose or eliminate the possibility of hip dysplasia by watching dogs walk and move about.

#7. Whether I health test my Giant Schnauzers and what the results may be are nobody’s business but my own. Wrong! It is irresponsible to the breed, to other breeders, and to buyers to refuse to disclose genetic health test results of Giant Schnauzer breeding stock.

#6. Current health tests are not always accurate, and I won’t health test my Giant Schnauzers until I know that the results will be totally accurate and definitive While there never are absolute guaranties in medical testing, the recommended health testing procedures are the most accurate ones available, and are updated as additional scientific information becomes available. This excuse is the last refuge of the irresponsible breeder who refuses to recognize what harm s/he is doing to the Giant Schnauzer breed by breeding only for looks and ignoring severe genetic health defects.

#5. Health testing is just a marketing tool used by some breeders. Wrong, again! This is yet another oft-used excuse for not health testing breeding stock. Claiming to health test, but not actually fully health testing and disclosing the results, is a marketing tool used by many breeders. Health testing is the best tool for reducing known health problems.

#4. Too much health testing will prevent me from producing Giant Schnauzers of proper type and temperament. So, what this breeder ends up producing is pretty Giant Schnauzers which are much more likely to suffer from long-term agonizing pain and die young.

#3. If I had to follow the GSCA Code of Ethics, I wouldn’t have any Giant Schnauzers to breed. Then, perhaps this breeder should be looking for some other breed of dog to ruin.

#2. If I feed the proper diet and supplement with vitamins, I will not have any genetic health problems because health problems are caused by improper diet and/or commercial dog food. A sure sign of ignorance about the mode of inheritance of most genetic diseases. While an improper diet can be a contributing factor in some diseases, the scientific evidence does not support the claim that diet or commercially prepared dog food causes genetic diseases.

And the Number One Worst Excuse Giant Schnauzer breeders use for not health testing:

#1. There is no [insert genetic defect here] in my Giant Schnauzers’ bloodlines. Wrong!Wrong! Wrong! Every Giant Schnauzer bloodline is infected with some severe genetic defects. It is up to you as a buyer to make sure that you understand before you buy a puppy from someone that the breeder is doing all that he or she can to reduce the incidence of serious health problems within the breed.

 

Choosing Male Or Female? 

Choosing Male Or Female?

Which will make a better pet, male or female? The only difference is a male lifts his leg and a female squats. There are so many misconceptions about males and females. In my experience, a male that has been neutered before he learns to mark in the house will never mark. Not all males even lift their leg to pee, and not all want to mark territory either. I have had several that have always squatted to pee just like a female. Do only males leave their yard? Some people think only males leave the yard and run off. Why do people think this? Because if a male is NOT neutered and smells a female in heat he will go look for her. Notice all the ifs in this statement? Neuter the male, problem solved. Female do also run. It depends on the dog and the training. Do only males mark their territory and hump? Many people believe that female dogs make better pets…female preference seems to be ingrained in these people. Most calls for pet dogs have people wanting a ‘sweet girl’. They don’t think females display alpha behaviors like ‘marking’ and/or ‘humping’. They believe that they are more docile and attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance. Well, They don’t call them a bitch for nothing. The female is the dominant dog in the pack and can and will show that dominance by humping and marking. If you just simply fix your dog, a male and female almost act exactly alike. They will be healthier happier and more puppy like if you fix them. My past teacup Poodle Penny was the dominant dog in my house and daily put the other bigger dogs in their place. She also had a habit of humping stuffed animals, this behavior would most likely have stopped if I got her fixed. For males like I have already stated, if they are neutered before they learn to mark in the house they will never mark. Are females more motherly? No, again it depends on the individual dog. Females are motherly to their pups when they are nursing. When a female is done nursing her puppies are just other dogs in the pack to her. Which are easier to house train? No difference again. House training depends on you. The more often you take your dog outside the quicker he will catch on to house-training. We pre train your puppy to use a doggy door. Once a dog is spayed or neutered you will see NO difference in sexes. I recommend waiting until the puppy is at least 1 year old before neutering/spaying because the puppy will need those hormones to grow to the correct size and allow the joints to grow properly. Neutering/Spaying to early can make the puppy look different than if un neutered/spayed and can cause joint problems. Female puppies will become sexually active around 8 months of age so you will have to watch them closely around other dogs until they are fixed. The absolute earliest we recommend spaying or neutering a Giant is 1 year old, and prefer 2 years of age if you can wait. Spay or Neuter your pet: That right there will prevent sooo much! They will not mark their territory, no heats and no surprise puppies. Not to mention the health benefits of spaying and neutering. This is just some friendly advice & really is the best thing for your dog if you do not wish to breed it, of course the final decision is up to you as a pet owner. I do not require it to be done but I do highly recommend it unless you are planning on showing in conformation. If you are planning on showing in conformation the dog must be kept intact while doing that. If you plan on breeding your dog we will help you with our experience to make sure it is done safely. I’m only a phone call away.

Tail Docking

Tail Docking: AS OF 8/06/10 Tail Docking Procedure. All our tail docking is done by my vet’s or my docking experts hand. We glue and stitch it shut to help it heal quickly and the puppies have much less pain when it is stitched. All that do our docking do have past medical experience and I do not advice inexperienced persons to stitch… I personally do not like tail docking even though I do it for our dogs. I feel it is a necessary evil. Why I dock the tails of all our dogs: I feel why offer quality dogs if they do not meet the standards of their breed… And that is a big reason I dock the tails of our Giant Schnauzers. If you want your puppy’s tail left long I will gladly do it but you must let me know before the puppy is 3 days old. I can also take a deposit for a future puppy and leave it’s tail long for you if you like.  I would like to say that tail docking is not something I endorse but it is a necessary procedure if you are sticking to breed standards.  The only thing I can do is make sure I do it with the best most painless method and have the experience to make sure it is done correctly. Tails are usually docked on 2-7 day old puppies, without either general or local anesthesia. We usually do it right at day 3. When the procedure is done the tail is first dipped in alcohol, and then clamped a short distance from the body, and the portion of the tail outside the clamp is cut away. Many breeders dock their pups themselves using a method that has been proven to be far more painful – “banding,” or tying off the tail. This stops the blood supply, which results in dry gangrene. The dead portion of the tail usually falls off about three days later. This can be likened to slamming your finger in a car door – and leaving it there. We first clean and disinfect it with alcohol, pinch it with a clamp to stop the blood and cut it with the scalpel and then stitch and glue it shut to close it completely up. I also cut the dew claws at the same time. The whole procedure only takes 2 minutes from start to finish. Puppies undergoing any method of tail-docking squeal and cry, yet advocates assert that the newborn’s nervous system is unable to feel the pain. They point out that puppies immediately crawl to their mothers to nurse. But don’t all hurt or frightened children immediately cry for their mommy? Moreover, research indicates that suckling causes the release of endorphins, the body’s natural pain relievers, which may be a more realistic way to view the puppies’ desire to nurse. Docking advocates ignore the fact that a newborn puppy simply is not capable of a wide range of responses. It is very difficult to accurately assess the degree of pain a newborn is experiencing. In my experience puppies cry for a minute and then whine under their breath for a few hours after that, then they are fine by the end of the day. So they are in some pain for a few hours and I think like a new born human baby they forget the pain by the next day…To stick close to the AKC standard I have to dock the tail of the Giant Schnauzer and I advise everyone to write to the AKC to ask them to change their standards for this breed so it is no longer necessary. Again if you want the tail left long and natural you can let me know before the litter is born or up to 3 days old and I will gladly leave it long for you…

Health and Your Puppy, And Is A Runt Healthy?

Runt puppies hold a unique appeal in our hearts. We want them to thrive so that we can share in their triumph. Many people say runts have great personalities and that’s why they want the smallest puppy. I guess the runt had to be more outgoing to get food and maybe more one on one time because of hand feeding if needed, but other than that I do not see a difference in the runt puppies.

Many breeders will kill a runt puppy at birth because it could have underlying issues that had caused it to be smaller than the litter mates. I however choose to have the vet look at the puppy and the vet will say if the puppy is suffering or has any signs of a problem such as a heart murmur that could cause a puppy not to grow. If there is something wrong with the puppy then the vet will decide to put it down. If the vet finds that the puppy acts perfectly healthy and there are no visible signs of a medical issue, then we will place the puppy in a pet home at a greatly discounted price.

Any runt puppy is covered by our health guarantee just as any other puppy is. We do not however pay for your vet bills. So if you are worried about a runt possibly having medical issues,” you can not afford,” maybe you should get a regular sized pup in the litter. It is rare but is possible the puppy has a medical problem that is just not apparent at time of adoption that is causing the size difference. This is true of absolutely any breed of dog. Most runts are just smaller but a few are smaller because of a medical problem, and not all issues are seen early in life. If something medically that is life threatening shows up that is causing the growth to be slow then you will be covered by our puppy health guarantee and you will get a credit of the purchase price of your puppy towards a future puppy from us.

Sometimes a runt is the smallest, but healthy, sibling. Only time will tell. A runt puppy in a large litter is going to happen, no way around it, but we can be proactive and save many puppies just by caring enough to take the extra time and individual care a good breeder should. Most catch up to the other puppies in the litter by the time they are fully grown, a few will always  be half of the breed standard size. Again only time will tell.

The most important resource for giving a runt puppy the best care and quality of a life is a great vet. If we have a puppy that is smaller sized we have the vet look over it and see if anything is wrong before we offer it for adoption. We are always there for you throughout the life of your puppy and hope you keep us informed of how your puppy turns out to help us be better breeders.

Thank You, Tina and Family

New Puppy Health Questions Answered. Teeth Alignment, Undesended Testicles, Hernias:

What if My pup’s Bottom canines are hitting top gum line? If you notice on a pup around 8 wks old the bottom canine teeth hitting the top gum line, no need to worry. This is very common in giants. The canines on top and bottom curve outward as they grow out from the gum line, and giants grow so quickly that on occasion you get a few pups that teeth emergence is so fast that the tooth needs a few extra weeks to curve enough to miss the top gum line. While the bottom teeth are hitting the top gum line you may notice they are actually poking through the top gum line and you may see some red irritation from this. The only time you need a vet intervention is if there is an infection, which no one has ever said has happened. Generally you just give pup nylon chews to help the teeth emerge quicker and curve outward more and in a few weeks the teeth set perfectly alongside the gum line. The worst case scenario would be your vet would need to file down the bottom baby canines a tiny bit to take the sharp point off the tip. The adult teeth should not have the same problem because they tend to curve much quicker than the first puppy teeth. Giants grow so fast at this age that a pup that looks like it has perfect teeth can end up with an imperfect bite, as well as a pup with a perfect bite at 8 wks May end up with a bite that is not perfect…. Of coarse I am always here for you if you have any concerns on your puppy’s teeth. Don’t hesitate to call with any questions. A Giant can still compete and win titles in conformation trials if the teeth are not perfect, but are still close. Thank you, Tina

What if my male pup has an undesended testicle? Since puppy’s grow very quickly sometimes you will get a puppy that has both testicles but one maybe higher and need a while longer to come down. I always have the vet check to see if she can feel both testicles and if she can not find a testicle I would let the puppy buyer know. I have not ever had the vet not be able to locate both testicles, even if one is higher up she tends to find it just fine. We do not guarantee testicles to both come down into the sack on any puppy but as of the date I wrote this article we have not of yet had a person say their pup with a high testicle ended up not eventually descending…. However I’m sure it will happen one day and in that event the fix is to Neuter your dog if it has not dropped before 8 months of age. A dog that has a current undesended testicle or has been neutered is not eligible for AKC conformation shows. The judge often feels the area to make sure both testicles are in the sac and will dismiss a dog that does not have both down. By the time you are showing your dog both testicles would have dropped, even if you had a higher one earlier on. If not then you are the owner of a pet quality and not a show quality dog. We try to double check and make sure a pup that is bought for conformation or showing and paid extra for because of this has both testicles, but if our vet missed something please let us know and we will try to be fair and work with you. If you do not tell us you want the dog for conformation and breeding and do not pay extra for it then your dog is only pet quality and this would not be guaranteed. If our vet missed something you must let us know at or before your first vet visit within the first 3 days of receiving your puppy.

What is a hernia and do I need to have it fixed? First I would like to explain small hernias you see in young puppies is nothing to worry about. It will not cause your puppy to be hurt, sick, or die. Once the tiny inner whole is fixed either naturally on it’s own, or by a couple inner sutures, then it is like the pup never had a hernia at all. There are no long term effects of having a hernia as a young puppy. If our vet says the hernia needs a surgical fix we will do it before puppy leaves us and will always tell the buyer about it. Again, once it is fixed it is like it was never there to begin with. There are several types of hernias.  As of today, I have never had a Giant pup with a hernia of any kind but have seen it in smaller breeds before. The most common Is the umbilical hernia: which in many cases does not need a fix at all but will naturally fix itself as the dog grows. If it does not close up on it’s own a simple surgery is preformed to put in a couple stitches to close the inner whole. This type of hernia is most often caused by the mother dog being to vigorous and pulling to hard on the umbilicus soon after birth. It is not considered genetic. It does not cause a puppy to be of any less quality and is not considered a fault in AKC conformation. Yes you can show a dog with a umbilical hernia and it will not harm his chances at all. You can even breed a dog that had a umbilical hernia as a young pup with no worries. Inguinal Hernias: Now even though I have never had a giant with an inguinal hernia before, I do know that type of hernia is possibly genetic if it happens more than once or twice from a pair of breeding dogs. This type of hernia gets the same quick suture surgical fix and if we notice one that needs surgery to fix it, we would get it fixed before the puppy leaves us. This pup would still be a good pet but not be breeding quality. Again, once the hernia is fixed it is like the pet never had one.  If you notice anything wrong with your puppy that our vet missed at it’s exam before it left us please let us know ASAP at or before your first vet visit that will be within first 3 days of receiving your puppy.